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Person holding the black deadbolt and doorknob of a partly open blue front door. — Deadbolt Installation, Port Bolster
Hands holding a lock cylinder and a ring of keys above a worn workbench with another cylinder and loose keys. — Lock Rekeying, Port Bolster

Change or rekey · Port Bolster

Deadbolt Installation in Port Bolster

The front door has a handsome lever and a keyed knob, and that is all.

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In plain words

A deadbolt installation is also the moment to sort out keys. The new cylinder can be pinned to match the key you already use, so the household stays on one key, or set to a fresh key if you would rather retire whatever copies are in circulation. Many keypad and smart deadbolts fit the same standard bore as a mechanical one, so a door prepared today for a keyed bolt often accepts one later, though the exact model's bore and thickness still need checking. Either way you leave with keys that work in every door they are meant to, tested one by one.

Sound familiar?

The door from the garage into the kitchen closes on a passage knob with no lock at all. Anyone who opens the garage is one turn of a handle from the house, and the insurance renewal form has a question about exactly that.

How the visit goes

Deadbolt Installation

How the visit goes

White door with a black keypad deadbolt and knob, beside a towel holding a lock body, latch, screwdriver and a tool bag. — Port Bolster
Technician in a cap and clear glasses holding a yellow impact driver at the latch edge of a black door. — Port Bolster
  1. Which key should open it

    A deadbolt is also a key decision, so the locksmith asks how the household's keys are arranged now. If every door shares one key, the new cylinder can be pinned to that same key, provided the keyways match, so nobody's ring grows. If the house has just changed hands, this is the natural time to set the new bolt and the other exterior locks to a fresh key and retire whatever copies are out there. Restricted or high-security keyways, keypad models with a backup cylinder and locks that must match a rental building's system all steer the choice of hardware, and it is easier to settle this before the box is opened than after.

  2. Assembling the cylinder and thumb-turn

    The outside housing goes on first, with its tailpiece threaded through the slot in the bolt cam and its mounting posts through the matching holes. Any plastic alignment bracket that ships with the lock is used on a 54 mm bore and removed on a smaller one. The inside thumb-turn plate is set against the door and the two long tapered screws are driven through it into the outside housing, snug rather than crushed, so the housings pull tight to the door without distorting the mechanism. The locksmith turns the thumb-turn before the door is closed to confirm the bolt throws its full length and returns without a catch.

  3. A frame that now holds the bolt

    Behind the new strike plate is the part of the job you cannot see and will never need to think about. The pocket has been bored deep enough for the bolt to seat fully, the plate has been let into the jamb so it sits flush, and the long screws reach through the jamb into the framing behind it. On a door that had been forced or had stripped screw holes, a full-length reinforcer may sit under the strike. If you press the jamb with your palm now, it does not flex. That stiffness is what a bolt needs to do its work, and it is the reason the installation took as long on the frame as on the door.

Deadbolt Installation

In the van

  • Single-cylinder deadbolt

  • Jamb reinforcer

  • Reinforced strike plate

  • Rekeying pins and key blanks

  • 75 mm (3 in) strike screws

Two technicians in green shirts look over a metal tray holding a chrome tool beside a white van with open rear doors. — Port Bolster

Deadbolt Installation

What affects the quote

  1. Travel to the property

    Distance and access are part of any call-out: a house on a suburban street and a rural property down a long road involve different driving time, and the quote says so.

  2. Strike and frame reinforcement

    A reinforced strike with long screws is standard; a full-length jamb reinforcer, a strike box or repairs to a split jamb after a forced entry are extra items quoted on their own.

  3. Door and hinge corrections

    A sagging door, loose hinge screws or thick weatherstrip are put right before a bolt is fitted, and that adjustment is quoted as its own line rather than folded into the lock.

What to have ready

  • Is there a storm door or screen door in the same opening?
  • Is the door solid wood, steel-clad or fibreglass, and roughly how thick is it?
  • Do you own the home, rent it, or manage it for someone else?
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Deadbolt Installation: questions

Questions
Do I need a deadbolt on the door from the garage into the house?

It is worth having. The door between an attached garage and the living space is in practice often the softest way in, since a garage door left open leaves a passage knob as the only barrier. A thumb-turn deadbolt there costs a few minutes a day and closes that gap.

Can a keypad or smart deadbolt be fitted instead of a keyed one?

Yes, and the preparation is the same. Many electronic deadbolts use the standard 54 mm bore and the same edge bore, so a door cut for a mechanical bolt often accepts one, and a keyed bolt fitted today can usually be swapped for a keypad later, subject to that model's own bore, backset and thickness needs. The locksmith checks door thickness against the model, fits a reinforced strike as usual, sets up codes with you and shows where the backup cylinder or battery terminals are.

Someone forced my door. Can the new deadbolt go into the same frame?

In most cases, yes. The locksmith examines the jamb for splits and stripped screw holes, glues and pins any cracked section, and fits a full-length jamb reinforcer under the strike so the new long screws bite into sound wood and the stud behind. A new pocket is bored to the correct depth. Where the jamb is beyond repair, replacing that section of frame is discussed before any lock goes on.

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