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SunkistBeach Lock & Key Specialists
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Detached satin-nickel lever hardware, tubular latch and strike plate on a wooden workbench. — Lock Replacement & Upgrade, Georgina
Hands holding a lock cylinder and a ring of keys above a worn workbench with another cylinder and loose keys. — Lock Rekeying, Georgina

Change or rekey · Georgina

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

The lever on the side door droops toward the floor and rattles in your hand.

Call (289) 653-1447

In plain words

Sometimes the reason is simply that the hardware looks wrong or has weathered badly. Road salt, freeze-thaw and humid summers are hard on finishes, and a brass handleset can go blotchy while a lacquered knob peels. The locksmith helps you pick a finish that suits the exposure, whether matte black, satin nickel or a PVD brass that resists tarnish, and matches the deadbolt, handleset and interior levers so the entrance reads as one design. Function and grade are chosen alongside looks, so a door refreshed for appearance also comes out better protected.

Sound familiar?

The brass handleset has gone blotchy and green where the winter salt reaches it, and the coating on the deadbolt is lifting in flakes. It still locks, but it looks tired beside the fresh paint on the door.

How the visit goes

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

How the visit goes

White door with a black keypad deadbolt and knob, beside a towel holding a lock body, latch, screwdriver and a tool bag.
Technician in a cap and clear glasses holding a yellow impact driver at the latch edge of a black door.
  1. The door and frame around the lock

    A new lock inherits whatever the door and frame are doing, so both get a look. The locksmith checks whether the door has dropped on its hinges, whether weatherstrip is pushing it out of square, and whether the bolt lands squarely in the strike pocket or rubs its edge. The pocket depth matters as well: a bolt that reaches the back of a shallow pocket is not fully thrown. Hinge screws, a jamb split from an old forced entry and a strike held by short screws are all noted, because the visit will tidy them up so the new hardware works as designed.

  2. Setting and reinforcing the strike

    The strike side is where a replacement earns most of its value. With the door closed, the bolt is thrown and its mark checked against the pocket so the strike can be positioned to accept the full throw without rubbing. A shallow pocket is deepened until the bolt seats to its stop. Then a reinforced strike or a strike box is fitted using 75 millimetre screws that pass through the jamb and bite into the framing behind it, which is what stops a jamb splitting under a kick. Where an old forced entry has cracked the wood, it is glued and dowelled or a repair plate is fitted first.

  3. The rental paperwork, quietly sorted

    If the door belongs to a rental unit, the visit finishes with the keys in the right hands. When a landlord orders the change, giving the tenant a full set of new keys is standard practice. When a tenant orders it with the landlord's consent, a key for the landlord is cut alongside the household's and the consent is noted. The locksmith can leave a short written record of the hardware fitted and the keys issued for the property file, so both sides know what is on the door and nobody is surprised at the next inspection or move-out.

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

In the van

  • Filler plates and thick-door extension kits

  • Cylinders, plug follower and pinning kit

  • Handleset with matching deadbolt

  • Manufacturer-approved cylinder lubricant

  • Adjustable latch or bolt

Two technicians in green shirts look over a metal tray holding a chrome tool beside a white van with open rear doors.

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

What affects the quote

  1. Strike reinforcement and jamb repair

    A reinforced strike with long screws is a modest addition; repairing a jamb split from a forced entry, or fitting a strike box into a frame that has never had one, adds labour and materials.

  2. Restricted keyway system

    Patented cylinders and controlled key blanks cost more than standard hardware and involve setting up your key records, which is quoted separately from an ordinary replacement.

  3. Older and mortise hardware

    Servicing an original mortise case, sourcing a compatible cylinder or fitting a conversion plate on a century door involves more assessment and fitting time than a standard cylindrical replacement.

What to have ready

  • Is the door wood, steel or fibreglass, and roughly how thick is it?
  • Is the problem wear, damage, looks, a change of function or too many keys?
  • Has the door been forced or damaged, or does it need a push to lock?
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Lock Replacement & Upgrade: questions

Questions
Is it possible to upgrade just the exterior locks now and handle interior doors later?

Yes, and it is a common way to spread the work out. Exterior doors carry the security load, so starting there with a graded deadbolt and a reinforced strike covers the part that matters most first. Interior locks, passage sets, privacy locks on bathrooms and bedrooms, can be scheduled for a later visit without affecting anything already done, and the locksmith can note what was fitted so the second visit matches it.

What happens to the old lock?

It is yours. Some people keep a sound old cylinder as a spare or move a decent deadbolt to a shed or garage door, and the locksmith can rekey it to the house key for that purpose. Worn or damaged hardware is taken away for recycling if you prefer. Either way, the old keys should be gathered up and discarded so nobody confuses them with the new set.

Can you replace the lock on a sliding patio door or French doors?

Yes. Sliding doors take a replacement mortise hook lock sized to the rail, often with a keyed exterior, and benefit from a secondary foot bolt or a pin through the frames. French doors are secured by treating the inactive leaf properly with flush bolts into the head and sill, then fitting a deadbolt to the active leaf with a strike into that reinforced edge. Both are routine parts of a residential upgrade.

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